ACCESSORIES

A soft-bristled brush has two distinct functions: distributing sebum from the roots to the lengths of the hair and stimulating microcirculation through massage. It also mechanically loosens flakes and product residue before shampooing, thus improving cleansing. It does not replace a scalp scrub , which chemically removes stubborn flakes—the two steps are complementary.

Microneedling has clinical data for androgenetic alopecia: the randomized study by Dhurat et al. ( International Journal of Trichology , 2013, 100 men over 12 weeks) showed a significantly greater increase in hair density when combining microneedling and minoxidil, compared to minoxidil alone. However, this protocol used 1,5 mm needles and a combination of medications. A home dermaroller plays another role: it creates micro-channels that improve the penetration of subsequently applied treatments and stimulate local microcirculation.

0,5 mm is the ideal length for home use: sufficient to penetrate the stratum corneum and improve the absorption of active ingredients, without reaching the depths where the procedure becomes a medical act. Beyond 1 mm, the dermaroller requires supervised professional use. Opt for medical-grade titanium needles and check before each use that none are bent—a deformed needle will scratch instead of perforate.

One to three times a week, for two to five minutes, on a clean, dry scalp—never more. The skin needs time to close the micro-channels between applications; frequent treatments only perpetuate irritation instead of stimulating it. Then apply your scalp serum or pre-shampoo mask: this is when absorption is optimal.

No. The dermaroller is contraindicated on an inflamed, scaly, damaged, or pustular scalp. Using microneedles on inflamed skin worsens the reaction and can trigger new lesions in the traumatized area—this is the Koebner phenomenon, well-documented in psoriasis. The scalp must first be treated with a suitable scalp psoriasis treatment , and then the tool can be reintroduced once the skin has calmed down.

Data is limited but not nonexistent: a Japanese study (Koyama et al., Eplasty , 2016) observed an increase in hair thickness after four minutes of daily massage for 24 weeks—in only nine men. The proposed mechanism is mechanical, involving the stretching of dermal papilla cells, rather than vascular. In other words: a helpful, free, and risk-free practice, but not a treatment. We explain this in our " Myths and Realities About the Scalp" section.