Focus on Castor vegetable oil

What you must remember

 

Castor oil does not promote hair growth: a systematic review of 22 studies found no solid evidence of an effect on growth, only weak data on shine. It remains an excellent conditioning agent, provided one is aware of the risk of matting.

  • Castor oil contains approximately 90% ricinoleic acid, unique among oils
  • There is no solid evidence of castor oil having an effect on hair growth.
  • Its real benefit is strengthening and reducing breakage
  • Acute matting is a documented risk in long hair.
A Closer Look at Castor Oil - MakeMyMask

Castor oil is probably the most recommended oil in the world for hair growth. It's also one of the few to have undergone a systematic review—and the verdict of that review doesn't at all match what social media promises.

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What does castor oil contain?

Extracted from the seeds of Ricinus communis , castor oil owes its uniqueness to its composition: approximately ninety percent ricinoleic acid, a hydroxylated fatty acid not found in significant quantities in any other common oil. This explains its extreme viscosity and its particular behavior on the fiber.

  • Its thick texture makes it very film-forming and occlusive.
  • Ricinoleic acid has documented anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.
  • It has been used since ancient Egypt, both in cosmetics and in pharmaceuticals.


Castor oil is the perfect example of an active ingredient whose real benefit has been overshadowed by a promise it doesn't keep. It does a remarkable job of coating the hair, reducing breakage, and soothing. That much is verifiable. But it doesn't make hair grow back, and repeating that won't change anything.
Dr. Julie PernetDoctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist

Does castor oil make hair grow?

A systematic review published in 2022 analyzed 22 studies on castor oil. Its conclusion: weak evidence supporting increased shine, and no solid proof of an effect on hair growth. No randomized controlled trial showed that castor oil increased hair density or accelerated hair growth.

The risks of castor oil on hair

Its use is not without risk, and some precautions are necessary:

  • Acute matting: documented cases of long hair suddenly clumping together into an inextricable mass that had to be cut.
  • The accumulation of residue and its viscosity make rinsing difficult.
  • Contact dermatitis, rare but reported, on sensitive scalps
  • The weighing effect on fine hair, which loses all volume
  • The so-called "black" versions, which are more alkaline, are less well tolerated.

Diluted in a more fluid oil, applied without rubbing and rinsed gently, castor oil remains usable without difficulty.

Before
Before
After
After

Verified review

"Incredible! I didn't really believe it, but it's true: by taking care of the roots, the ends follow. My hair is shiny, nourished, and the application is super easy. Very, very good product."

Chloé B., a customer for 2 years

Discover the solution

The protocol for stronger hair

If your goal is stronger, less brittle hair, castor oil can help—but it only works on the surface. Strong hair is built from the root: exfoliate the scalp to expose the follicle, wash with a pH of 5 to limit swelling of the hair fiber, and then nourish the lengths with easy-to-rinse treatments.

Dry & Damaged Hair Protocol

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To remember

  • Castor oil contains approximately 90% ricinoleic acid, unique among oils
  • There is no solid evidence of castor oil having an effect on hair growth.
  • Its real benefit is strengthening and reducing breakage
  • Acute matting is a documented risk in long hair.

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F.A.Q

Does castor oil really make hair grow?
No, no clinical data demonstrates this. The benchmark systematic review concludes that there is no solid evidence regarding hair growth. The results reported by users most often stem from a reduction in breakage, resulting in fuller hair without the growth of new hairs.
How to use castor oil on hair safely?
Dilute the castor oil in a more fluid oil, at a ratio of one part to two, apply it by gently massaging the scalp, leave on for thirty minutes to overnight, then rinse without rubbing vigorously.
Can castor oil cause hair to tangle?
Yes, that's its most documented risk. Cases of acute matting have been reported in people with long hair: the combination of oil, hot water and friction welds the strands into a mass that has to be cut.
Is castor oil suitable for fine hair?
Not much, in its pure form. Its viscosity quickly weighs down fine hair and makes the roots fall flat. For this hair type, a lighter oil is better, or castor oil very diluted and reserved for the ends.
Is castor oil effective against dandruff?
Ricinoleic acid has documented antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties in laboratory studies, but no studies validate castor oil as an anti-dandruff treatment. For established flakes, a formula specifically designed for that purpose remains preferable.

Written by

Dr. Julie Pernet

Doctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist. Doctor of Pharmacy and Trichologist, founder of the DermoPilaire MakeMyMask Laboratory. She develops skincare protocols focused on scalp health, based on microbiome science and pH balance.

Dr. Julie Pernet