Sulfates, silicones, parabens: which ones are really problematic?

What you must remember

Lists of ingredients to avoid mix genuinely restricted molecules with false culprits. Sulfates, silicones, and phenoxyethanol have never been shown to be dangerous in cosmetic doses: what really matters is the pH of your formulas and the gentleness of the cleansing system.

  • The regulatory thresholds already incorporate cumulative daily exposure
  • Adding the percentages of several products makes no toxicological sense.
  • Siloxanes were restricted for environmental reasons, not for health reasons.
  • The pH of a formula carries more weight than any "free from" claim.
chemical substances found in cosmetics

 

Since June 6, 2026, cyclic siloxanes have been limited to 0,1% in European cosmetics. Just one more ingredient on the list of banned molecules—except the reason isn't what you might think. And that's the whole problem with these blacklists: they mix real restrictions, environmental concerns, and false culprits.

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What cosmetic regulations actually say

In Europe, each ingredient is evaluated by the European scientific committee, which sets a maximum concentration already incorporating cumulative exposure: several products per day, over a lifetime, with a safety margin of at least 100. A compliant product is not "borderline": it is formulated well below the risk threshold.

  • The thresholds take into account the number of products applied daily
  • The concentrations of two separate products do not add up in a single dose
  • An ingredient deemed problematic is restricted or banned, not left to the consumer's discretion.


I see blacklists circulating that classify lauryl sulfate and phenoxyethanol alongside known endocrine disruptors. This shortcut is detrimental to everyone: it instills fear without providing information, and it diverts attention from the real issue of formulation, starting with pH.
Dr. Julie PernetDoctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist

The molecules actually framed

Some substances have indeed been withdrawn, and it's worth knowing which ones. Lilial has been banned since March 2022 due to its potential genotoxicity. BHA is classified as a possible carcinogen by the IARC. Cyclotetrasiloxane has been banned in cosmetics since 2022, and all cyclic siloxanes are now limited to 0,1%—due to their persistence in aquatic environments, not because of any proven human risk.

The false culprits on the blacklists

Several ingredients are systematically listed without being justified by the data.

  • Sulfates are not toxic: they can irritate a sensitive scalp, that's all.
  • Silicones do not damage the fiber; they even protect it from friction.
  • Phenoxyethanol is considered safe at 1% by the European scientific committee, for all age groups.
  • Short-chain parabens are among the best-tolerated preservatives.
  • A "free from" label never tells you what has replaced the removed ingredient.

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To remember

  • The regulatory thresholds already incorporate cumulative daily exposure
  • Adding the percentages of several products makes no toxicological sense.
  • Siloxanes were restricted for environmental reasons, not for health reasons.
  • The pH of a formula carries more weight than any "free from" claim.

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F.A.Q

Are sulfates harmful to hair?
No. These are effective cleansing agents that can irritate a sensitive or reactive scalp at high concentrations, but no data indicates they are toxic. On a fragile scalp, gentler surfactants are still preferable—for comfort, not safety.
Why have silicones been restricted in Europe?
For environmental, not health, reasons. Cyclic siloxanes are highly persistent and bioaccumulative in aquatic environments: since June 2026, their concentration has been limited to 0,1%. On the hair itself, they are considered neither irritants nor allergens.
Should phenoxyethanol be avoided?
The European scientific committee considers it safe at 1% for all age groups. The only remaining restriction in France concerns leave-on products applied to the diaper area of ​​children three years old or younger. This does not apply to any hair care products.
How to correctly read an INCI list
Look at the first five to seven ingredients, which make up the bulk of the formula, then the cleansing system and the stated pH. A "sulfate-free" label tells you nothing about what replaces it, nor about the product's actual tolerance on your scalp.

Written by

Dr. Julie Pernet

Doctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist. Doctor of Pharmacy and Trichologist, founder of the DermoPilaire MakeMyMask Laboratory. She develops skincare protocols focused on scalp health, based on microbiome science and pH balance.

Dr. Julie Pernet