Greasy hair

Hair transition: what really changes when you go natural

Written by Dr. Julie Pernet Doctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist Updated 05 / 08 / 2026 2 min read

What you must remember

The hair transition is a real phase, but it's poorly explained. Your hair doesn't detoxify; it simply sheds the silicone film that masked its condition. A clarifying wash, a pH-5 shampoo, and a length treatment are enough to reduce this process from several months to a few weeks.

  • A transition doesn't fix anything: it reveals the true state of the fiber
  • Silicones mask, they don't damage
  • Sebum production is hormonal, not related to shampoo.
  • A clarifying wash and a pH of 5 shorten the phase to a few weeks
natural cosmetics to help you successfully transition to natural hair

You were promised transformed hair, but you find it dull, rough, and impossible to detangle. This phase has a name: the hair transition. It's real, and it discourages most of those who go through it—but it can't be explained at all by what you read everywhere.

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What is called a hair transition

Going natural means ditching formulas rich in insoluble silicones and sulfated surfactants. The former leave a smoothing film on the hair fiber, while the latter cleanse deeply but can irritate the scalp over time. When you remove them, two things happen simultaneously.

  • The smoothing film disappears and the true condition of your hair lengths becomes visible again.
  • The scalp, being less irritated, takes a few weeks to regain its balance.
  • The texture changes, without the hair being damaged in the process.


I prefer to be honest about this: during a transition, your hair doesn't get damaged or repaired. You simply discover its true state, without the mask that was hiding it. It's unsettling, but it's the starting point for any serious work on the scalp.
Dr. Julie PernetDoctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist

Why your hair changes texture

Non-soluble silicones fill in the raised cuticles and create artificial glide. Remove them, and an already porous hair fiber becomes rough again overnight. Nothing has been damaged: the makeup has simply disappeared, and what you're touching now is your hair as it is.

Signs that your transition is underway

You are probably in the midst of a transition phase if you observe several of these signs:

  • The hair suddenly became rough and difficult to detangle.
  • A loss of shine appeared after just a few washes.
  • Roots that seem to re-grease faster than before
  • Hair that puffs up and frizzes more
  • The impression that your new products "do nothing"

Before
Before
After
After

Verified review

"My hair has regained its vitality, and I can now space out my shampoos to 4 days! Before, I had to wash it every 2 days because of itching related to excess sebum. My scalp is visibly healthier, and the results are conclusive."

Rachel D., a customer for 8 months

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The protocol for shortening the transition

A transition doesn't have to last a year. Three levers significantly shorten it: a single clarifying wash to remove accumulated deposits in one go, a pH 5 shampoo that cleanses without stripping the scalp barrier, and a length treatment that compensates for the lost glide with silicones.

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To remember

  • A transition doesn't fix anything: it reveals the true state of the fiber
  • Silicones mask, they don't damage
  • Sebum production is hormonal, not related to shampoo.
  • A clarifying wash and a pH of 5 shorten the phase to a few weeks

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F.A.Q

How long does a hair transition take?
In most cases, it takes a few weeks, not a year. Silicones don't accumulate indefinitely: a clarifying wash removes them in one go. What takes time is growing healthy hair, not removing residue.
Do silicones really damage hair?
No, and that's the most persistent misconception on the subject. Silicones actually protect the hair fiber from friction. Their drawback lies elsewhere: they mask the true condition of the hair and weigh down the scalp when they accumulate.
Why do my hair get greasy faster since I switched to natural products?
Your sebum production hasn't increased—it depends on your hormones, not your products. What you're noticing is the absence of the film that used to absorb and mask the sebum on the surface.
Do you need to cut your hair to successfully complete your transition?
It's not mandatory, but it helps on very damaged ends. Cutting doesn't change the process itself: it simply removes the part of the hair fiber that no further treatment can improve.

Written by

Dr. Julie Pernet

Doctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist. Doctor of Pharmacy and Trichologist, founder of the DermoPilaire MakeMyMask Laboratory. She develops skincare protocols focused on scalp health, based on microbiome science and pH balance.

Dr. Julie Pernet

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