Knowing the porosity of your hair is essential

What you must remember

Porous hair is not an inherited hair type. Most often, a cuticle depleted of surface lipids allows water to penetrate in large quantities and then immediately evaporate: the hair fiber remains dry and swells at the slightest humidity. Washing at pH 5, replenishing lipids, and cleansing the roots seal this surface.

  • Porosity is not a type of hair, it is a surface condition
  • A bare cuticle allows water to enter and leave immediately
  • A wash at pH 5 and lipids applied to the lengths seal the surface
  • Strong hair is built at the root, even before it emerges
Knowing the porosity of your hair is essential

Does your hair absorb all your treatments without ever seeming hydrated? This phenomenon has a name: hair porosity. It's neither a hair type nor a genetic predisposition, but a surface condition—that of the cuticle, the scales that envelop the hair fiber. And a surface condition can be corrected.

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What makes hair porous


On healthy hair, the cuticle is covered with an invisible lipid film that makes it hydrophobic: water slides off instead of penetrating. When this film is depleted, the surface becomes hydrophilic and water enters in large quantities before immediately leaving again.

  • Dyes and bleaches degrade this surface film
  • The heat from styling tools cracks the hair cuticles.
  • Washing with too much alkalinity causes the fiber to swell and lifts the cuticle.


Porosity is often described as a genetic predisposition, when in fact it's a surface condition. Hair isn't born porous; it becomes so through chemical processes, heat, and an unbalanced pH. And what's acquired can be corrected.

Dr. Julie PernetDoctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist


Why don't your skincare products last?


A raised cuticle doesn't retain anything. Water and active ingredients penetrate quickly, then evaporate just as quickly once the hair dries. This explains the frustrating feeling of hair becoming dry again within a few hours, regardless of how rich the mask is.



Signs of high porosity


You may be affected if you observe several of these signs:

  • Hair feels rough to the touch, even when clean
  • Frizz appears as soon as the air becomes humid.
  • Very quick drying
  • Lengths that tangle on their own
  • Dull and brittle tips

Before
Before
After
After

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"Incredible! I didn't really believe it, but it's true: by taking care of the roots, the ends follow. My hair is shiny, nourished, and the application is super easy. Very, very good product."

Chloé B., a customer for 2 years

Discover the solution


The protocol for closing the surface


Good news: porosity is reversed. The goal is to wash at pH 5 to limit fiber swelling, to provide lipids to rebuild the surface film, and to purify the scalp which produces the future centimeters of hair.


Dry & Damaged Hair Protocol

Comprehensive treatment for dry & damaged hair

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To remember

  • Porosity is not a type of hair, it is a surface condition
  • A bare cuticle allows water to enter and leave immediately
  • A wash at pH 5 and lipids applied to the lengths seal the surface
  • Strong hair is built at the root, even before it emerges


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F.A.Q

How can I tell if my hair is porous?
Observe their behavior rather than performing a test. Very rapid drying, frizz as soon as the air is humid, and a rough fiber that tangles easily indicate high porosity. Conversely, very slow drying and heavy treatments suggest low porosity.
Can porous hair be repaired?
The damaged part of the hair cannot regenerate, but its surface can be restored and further damage stopped. Washing with a pH 5 solution, applying lipids to the lengths, and avoiding chemical and thermal damage are enough to restore suppleness and shine in a few weeks.
Which shampoo should I choose for porous hair?
A shampoo with a pH of 5, without sulfates. The further the pH deviates from the natural acidity of the hair, the more the fiber swells and the more the cuticles lift — washing that is too alkaline therefore directly maintains the porosity that we are trying to correct.

Written by

Dr. Julie Pernet

Doctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist.Doctor of Pharmacy and trichologist, founder of the DermoPilaire MakeMyMask Laboratory. She develops treatment protocols focused on scalp health, based on microbiome science and pH5 balance.

Dr. Julie Pernet