Dry dandruff vs. oily dandruff: how to tell them apart?

What you must remember

Oily dandruff results from an excess of sebum that feeds the Malassezia yeast: yellowish, sticky flakes and a shiny scalp. Dry dandruff stems from a weakened skin barrier: fine, white flakes and a tight, uncomfortable scalp. Two conditions, two different routines.

  • Oily dandruff comes from an excess of sebum that feeds Malassezia
  • Dry dandruff originates from a weakened skin barrier.
  • The decisive criterion: do the scales fall off on their own or remain stuck together?
  • Washing less often improves neither type
Dry dandruff vs. oily dandruff: how to tell them apart?

Not all dandruff is the same, which explains why the same anti-dandruff shampoo provides relief for some people and not for others. Dry or oily dandruff has a different appearance, different skin type—and certainly not the same treatment requirements.

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Oily dandruff: when sebum feeds yeast

Oily dandruff, also called seborrheic dandruff, appears on a scalp that produces excess sebum . This abundant sebum promotes the proliferation of Malassezia , a yeast naturally present on the scalp, whose excessive presence triggers an inflammatory reaction and flaking.

  • Thick, yellowish scales that adhere to the scalp
  • An oily and shiny scalp, the day after washing
  • Frequent itching, often accompanied by redness


The first question I ask isn't "Do you have dandruff?" but "Does it fall onto your shoulders or does it stick to your scalp?" This single detail dictates the entire routine. Sticky flakes and a shiny scalp aren't treated like white glitter on a tight, itchy scalp.
Dr. Julie PernetDoctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist

Dry dandruff: a flaky scalp

Dry dandruff forms on a scalp whose skin barrier is weakened—by harsh shampoos, an alkaline pH, cold weather, or heating. The flaking process accelerates, releasing fine particles that detach on their own. Malassezia can also be involved, but the underlying cause is dryness, not excess sebum.

  • White, fine, light scales that fall onto the shoulders
  • A dry, tight, and sometimes red scalp
  • Mild to moderate itching, often after shampooing

Dry or oily dandruff: the five-criteria test

Observe these elements to determine which category you fall into:

  • The color: white and thin, or yellowish and thick
  • Their behavior: they fall off on their own, or they stay stuck together.
  • The condition of the scalp: it feels tight, or it becomes shiny in less than twenty-four hours
  • Itching: mild after washing, or persistent with redness
  • The time frame for reappearance: gradual over several days, or starting the next day.

If the scales form thick plaques with well-defined edges, it may not be dandruff but scalp psoriasis.

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"I've been testing this routine for over a month and a half to get rid of my
scalp problems, and to tell you the truth, I'm still blown away by the results. After years of all kinds of treatments and medications, I no longer have any dandruff or itching."

Manon C., a customer for 2 months

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How to treat dry and oily dandruff?

The basic principle is the same for both: to avoid further irritating an already unbalanced scalp, therefore a gentle wash at pH 5 and daily soothing of itching. The targeted step differs. For oily dandruff, the focus is on purifying the roots and removing the thickened sebum that feeds the yeast. For dry dandruff, the focus is on gently exfoliating the adherent flakes and rebuilding the surface lipid film.

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To remember

  • Oily dandruff comes from an excess of sebum that feeds Malassezia
  • Dry dandruff originates from a weakened skin barrier.
  • The decisive criterion: do the scales fall off on their own or remain stuck together?
  • Washing less often improves neither type

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F.A.Q

How can I tell if my dandruff is dry or oily?
Check if the flakes fall off on their own onto your shoulders or remain stuck to the scalp. Dry dandruff is thin, white, and flakes off easily; oily dandruff is yellowish, thick, and adheres to a shiny scalp.
Is it possible to have dry and oily dandruff at the same time?
This is possible, especially when an oily scalp has been stripped by harsh washing: sebum remains abundant, but the skin barrier is damaged. In this case, prioritize gentle washing before targeting one type or another.
Do dry and oily dandruff have the same cause?
No. Oily dandruff results from an excess of sebum, which promotes the proliferation of Malassezia. Dry dandruff results from a weakened skin barrier and accelerated desquamation. Yeast can be involved in both, but the underlying causes differ.
Should you wash your hair less often if you have dandruff?
No, it's actually counterproductive in both cases. On an oily scalp, letting sebum stagnate feeds the yeast; on a dry scalp, frequency isn't the issue. What matters is the gentleness of the cleanser and its pH level.
Is dandruff contagious?
No. Malassezia is a yeast naturally present on everyone's scalp: it is not a contagious infection, but an imbalance of the microbiome specific to each person.

Written by

Dr. Julie Pernet

Doctor of Pharmacy & Certified Trichologist. Doctor of Pharmacy and Trichologist, founder of the DermoPilaire MakeMyMask Laboratory. She develops skincare protocols focused on scalp health, based on microbiome science and pH balance.

Dr. Julie Pernet